Bhutan: The Motorcycle Adventure

The morning is for Paro itself. Cross the Paro Chhu on a covered cantilever bridge, with the whole valley opening around you, to Rinpung Dzong, the 'Fortress on a Heap of Jewels', founded in the 1640s under Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan. Above it stands Ta Dzong, the old watchtower that is home to the National Museum; from its terraces the rice fields, the town and the river are laid out below you. Built of stone and timber in the traditional way, it has stood through centuries of Himalayan earthquakes.

After coffee and lunch in town, you meet your motorcycle. Back at the hotel your riding guide runs through the bike, the rules of the road and the week ahead, then leads a gentle first loop through the valley's villages and farmland so you can find your rhythm before the mountains.

At the top, prayer flags crack in the wind and, on a clear day, the sacred peak of Jomolhari (7,326 m) and its neighbour Jichu Drake stand white on the northern horizon. Take your time here: the thin air rewards a slow walk and a hot drink.

The descent drops into the Haa Valley, one of the least-visited corners of western Bhutan, with wide fields, scattered farmhouses and villagers who still wave at every passing rider. After time in the valley, the road carries you back over the pass to Paro: about six hours of riding in all.

Beyond the capital the road climbs again to Dochula, at 3,100 metres, where 108 memorial chortens crown the pass. Over a steaming cup of coffee, and on a clear day, the highest snow peaks of the eastern Himalayas line the horizon. It is the best photo stop of the week.

The afternoon descends through forest into the warm Punakha valley and the village of Sopsokha, near Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the fifteenth-century saint Drukpa Kunley, the 'Divine Madman'. Explore by bike and on foot while your guide explains the stories behind the bold phallus paintings on its houses. They are symbols of protection and fertility, though no one minds if you smile.

Here the bikes take a well-earned rest. Walk the Gangtey Nature Trail down through pine woods and across open meadows, with sweeping views over the valley floor and its scattered farmhouses.

Halfway through the journey is a good moment to be looked after. This evening you soak in a traditional hot stone bath, where river stones heated in the fire release their minerals into water scented with herbs. It is Bhutan's own remedy for tired riders.

Then comes the longest day in the saddle: about six hours from Gangtey back to Paro, through two small towns and the capital, past snow-capped peaks, dense forest and farming villages. It is a day to take in just how varied this small kingdom is, and how good its roads feel on two wheels.

The trail climbs through pine forest hung with prayer flags, past a waterfall and a teahouse halfway, with the monastery drawing nearer at every turn. Legend says Guru Rinpoche flew here on the back of a tigress in the eighth century to meditate in its caves; pilgrims, royals and travellers from around the world have made the climb ever since.

Allow four to five hours for the round trip at a steady pace. Ponies can carry you part of the way up, and your guide will set a rhythm that suits you. Your last evening in Paro is yours to celebrate.

As the aircraft climbs out of the valley, look down on the roads you have ridden and the passes you have crossed, and start planning the ride back.