Wild Wild East: A 21-day eastern Bhutan tour, from Paro to the Brokpa highlands

Setting the tone for your journey, the first day sees us leave for Thimphu, Bhutan's vibrant capital. On the way, crystal-clear rivers and a pause at a temple graced by an age-old cantilever bridge. Soon the 169-ft Buddha statue comes into view, gracefully overlooking the whole of Thimphu.

The day continues at the school of the thirteen arts and crafts, then a lunch of authentic Bhutanese food, traditional dances and archery, a quintessentially Bhutanese experience. As the day draws to a close, a scenic drive to Sangaygang gives you a panoramic view of the city.

Today we visit Tashichho Dzong, the impressive fortress and monastery that is the seat of the Bhutanese government and the summer residence of the Je Khenpo, Bhutan's Chief Abbot, adorned with beautiful murals and paintings. Next, the Folk Heritage Museum, housed in a restored 19th-century farmhouse, shows the rural Bhutanese way of life and traditional farming.

In the evening, the Thimphu Craft Market offers handicrafts, textiles and authentic gifts for your loved ones back home, and the day ends with a walk around the city. At night, Thimphu has a growing number of bars and pubs, such as Mojo Park, The Zone and Space 34, some with live music on certain evenings.

After lunch, visit Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple famous throughout Bhutan for blessing visitors who wish for a child, and later the magnificent Punakha Dzong, lying beautifully amid the jacaranda trees.

The effort is well worth it. The Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, built to promote peace and stability in the country, is a testament to the skill of Bhutan's craftsmen and artists, and from the top you look out across the whole Punakha Valley. The hike takes two to three hours, depending on your fitness. Or spend the day rafting the wild rivers of Punakha instead.

After lunch we hike the Gangtey Nature Trail. It leads from the old stupa near Gangtey Temple through the natural beauty of the valley, past picturesque farmhouses dotted about the fields, with the spectacular wetland below.

The valley, the friendly locals and the richness of nature will leave you feeling serene and at peace.

For miles the dzong is visible, seeming to tease you, wondering if you will ever reach it. Trongsa Dzong, built in 1648, is the ancestral home of the royal family: the first and second kings ruled the country from here, and all four kings held the post of Trongsa Penlop before being crowned. Above it, the Ta Dzong watchtower of 1652, with observation decks resembling a tiger, a lion, a garuda and a dragon, is now a museum of the Wangchuck dynasty.

About 15 miles away stands Kuenga Rabten, the winter palace of the second king, Jigme Wangchuck, a splendid building with superb woodwork, its top floor an altar room with statues of Sakyamuni, the Shabdrung and Guru Rinpoche.

Explore the small town of Chamkhar, visit a 7th-century temple built by a Tibetan king, and Kurje Lhakhang, then hike the beautiful meadows that make the valley a must-visit.

And for something lighter, the little Red Panda beer brewery and the cheese factory, both small, local and well worth a stop.

As the day mellows, take a leisurely walk through the valley's lush landscapes: meandering streams, verdant forests and the distant melody of birds. In the evening, the Ugyen Wangchuck Institute for Conservation and Environmental Research shows Bhutan's dedication to safeguarding its natural wonders.

Tonight is a night in a Bhutanese homestay, a captivating window into local life. Farmhouses are built with rammed earth, wattle and daub, ornate woodwork and stone, with livestock on the ground floor, storage above and the family's living quarters and shrine at the top. A night here is an immersion into family life and the legendary Bhutanese hospitality.

Your vehicle drops you at Shertang La, and from there you walk down through beautiful meadows on the old walking trails, through virgin forest with wonderful views of the valley below. The walk is all downhill, so not strenuous: a chance to breathe the crisp mountain air and stop for pictures at your own pace (about four hours' driving and up to five hours' walking today).

Eastern Bhutan is extremely isolated, home mostly to Sharchop-speaking communities alongside other minorities. Its charm and biodiversity are not lost even in modern times, with plenty of chances to explore nature.

After a traditional lunch of red rice and curries, Khoma village is renowned for its exquisite handwoven textiles, made with techniques passed down through generations. In Gangzur, artisans craft wooden bowls and cups with intricate designs.

Late in the afternoon, the towering Takila Guru statue, a revered symbol of Guru Rinpoche's teachings, offers a serene space for reflection with panoramic views. We drive back to Mongar in the evening, taking in the scenery one last time.

Thirty minutes on, Trashigang Dzong, "the fortress of the auspicious hill", built in 1659 on a ledge with cliffs on three sides above the Drangme Chhu and Gamri Chhu. Legend says its sight made a Tibetan army retreat, calling it a "sky dzong" not on the ground. Trashigang is the most unexplored part of Bhutan, truly rural, and people call it the jewel of the east; the region ranges from 600 to 4,000 metres, so be aware of acclimatisation.

The Sakteng valley, at about 3,000 metres in Trashigang district, remains untouched by the outside world. The Brokpas' way of life has barely changed; they still depend on yaks and animal husbandry, bartering their products for grain. We stay in a homestay, enjoy the cuisine of the herders and get to know their daily life.

Visit Sakteng Lower Secondary School and meet the children, an exchange of cultures in which you share your perspectives and learn about their daily lives and dreams. Through traditional songs, dances and language, the students are stewards of their own heritage. You can also try on the exquisite Brokpa dress, and capture the memory with your camera.

Nestled in the valley, the Ama Jomo Temple is dedicated to the protective deity Ama Jomo and draws pilgrims seeking blessings and guidance; its festivals and gatherings keep the community's traditions alive.

If time permits, we visit Sherubtse College in Kanglung, the first accredited college in Bhutan and one of the oldest and largest in the Royal University of Bhutan. It opened as a public school in 1968, became a junior college in 1976 and joined the Royal University in 2003; its green campus has an authentic rural flavour, ten minutes from Yongphula airport.

The historic town of Paro lies at the centre of a valley rich in sacred sites and ancient buildings. Terraced paddy fields and quaint farmhouses fill the lower valley, while above, coniferous forests look down on the Paro Chhu as it snakes its way below.

The hike is an awe-inspiring journey, with glorious views of the Paro valley and alluring waterfalls near the entrance to the monastery: a treat for you and your camera.

We pack our lunch for a picnic on the last day of the trip, with time to enjoy the view and to meditate inside the temple. In the evening, a stroll around town for some window shopping, and perhaps souvenirs for family and friends back home.